After a few great days in Spain with the Brandenburgs, it was finally time for us to jet off to Lisbon! Bryan lucked out with our trip falling over Memorial Day weekend, so after a week of working while Sabrina, Caleb and I toured around southern Spain, it was finally time for us to have uninterrupted family time!
Friday, May 24: Tuktuk Tour & Taylor Swift
Our Friday morning started early with a 3 am wake-up and a 6:30 am flight to Lisbon! Yep, you read that right, we continued the family tradition of early morning flights; but we weren't complaining about $80 round trip airfare!
While waiting for our flight, Caleb and Sabrina enjoyed some airport Starbucks before we hopped on the plane to watch the sunrise along the 1-hour flight!
Aeroporto Internacional de Lisboa Humberto Delgado
Upon landing in Lisbon at 6:30 am (don't you just love a one-hour time change?!) it was time to make our way to our hotel to drop our bags!
We had heard that Lisbon's public transit was infamous for delays and cancelation, and we learned that firsthand. We jumped on the subway heading into town and thought "Hey, their public transit isn't that bad! That was easy!" When we were two stops from our destination, we heard a Portuguese announcement over the loudspeaker as all the locals got off the train...uh oh.
The green line was "temporarily canceled" and we were told the best option was their bus system. Instead of wasting more time in long lines at bus stops, we figured the 20-minute walk would be a great way to see the city and wake up for our busy day of sightseeing.
Hotel Inn Rossio
The walk wasn't too bad, but lugging our rolling suitcases along Lisbon's tiled sidewalks wasn't the ideal start to our trip. We made it to our hotel, dropped our luggage off, and then began the search for breakfast!
Painel da Baixa
Right around the corner from our hotel was a street bakery, We enjoyed a few breakfast sandwiches, while Sabrina devoured eggs and bacon. Together we split two Pastéis de nata, better known as custard tarts, since Lisbon is famous for this pastry treat! Our cappuccinos were the perfect caffeine addition to finish off our breakfast!
Monumento dos Restauradores
You know I don't waste time in new cities, so I conveniently booked a TukTuk tour of the city at 10 am. As we made our way to the meeting point, we paused for a few photos in front of the Monumento dos Restauradores. This monument memorializes the Portuguese Restoration War during the 1600s and was a convenient spot to soak in some sunshine while we waited for our tour guide!
Speaking of our tour, let me just start by saying if you ever find yourself visiting Lisbon, you must book this tuk-tuk tour with Arthur. Arthur is originally from Brazil but moved to Portugal a few years back. He gave off serious surfer dude, laid-back energy, and was one of the best tour guides Bryan and I have experienced in Europe (and we have done a lot of tours!)
Marques De Pombal
Arthur started our tour by explaining his Brazilian home and how his perspective of Portuguese history is a little different since he grew up in a colonized Portuguese country. He explained how Brazil's education system included a lot of Portuguese history, so his explanation of places and major historical events comes from the eyes of the "colonized," not the "colonizer."
Our first history lesson was about Marques De Pombal, a Portuguese diplomat who helped rebuild the city of Lisbon after the 1755 Earthquake and tsunami disaster. Using early scientific knowledge, Marques de Pombal designed the city to withstand future earthquakes and outlast large waves. The man is considered controversial due to his disagreements with the King, who saw Marques de Pombal's love for the people and the city as a threat to his control.
The city of Lisbon erected a tower in the middle of a traffic circle in the heart of the city showcasing a statue of Marques De Pombal facing the ocean, as a physical reminder of his sacrifices to help build a safer Lisbon.
Parque Eduardo VII
As Arthur talked more in-depth about Marques De Pombal's accomplishments, he drove us up the steep Lisbon hills to a stunning park overlooking the city. Here we could really see the massive elevation changes within the downtown district!
Palácio Nacional de Belém
As we continued our TukTuk journey towards Belem, we passed the official residence of the president of the Portuguese Republic, Palácio Nacional de Belém, where we timed it perfectly to see the changing of guards ceremony happening out front!
LX Factory
Along the ride to Belem, we had our first stop at LX Factory. This area outside of Lisbon's main district, is known for its street art displays, vintage stores, and unique bars and restaurants. Arthur told us we needed to return at night to get the full experience, but I enjoyed all the graffiti art during our daytime visit! Our group agreed that we have to come back here before the end of our trip!
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
As we made our way into the heart of Belem, our first stop was at the monastery, Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This monastery is known for its stunning gardens and classic Portuguese architecture, but Arthur explained most people know it best for the invention of the Pastéis de Belém.
Pastéis de Belém
During medieval times, the nuns at Mosteiro dos Jerónimos were famous for using egg whites to starch their clothes. Not wanting to waste the egg yolks, the nuns got creative and invented the classic Portuguese custard tart. The monastery continued to bake these tarts for hundreds of years using their prized, secret recipe and people from all over would travel to Belem to purchase the delicious treat.
Then in 1837 a family purchased the recipe from the montasary and began making the original Pastéis de Belém, following the ancient recipe. That secret recipe is recreated every day in their bakery, by hand, using only traditional methods. It is also the only shop in the world that can use the name Pastéis de Belém; all other cutard tarts are called Pastéis de nata.
When we pulled up to this pastry shop, we noticed that the lines wrapped around the building. Arthur was quick to usher us through a side door, where we got to tour their factory and learn some of this history firsthand! I mean, just look at the ladies working the dough:
We learned that everything is still hand-made; the women flatten out the pastries, while the hired men do the heavy lifting by loading the pastries in and out of the ovens!
After the tour, Arthur took us to the front of the line so we could buy a few Pastéis de Belém ourselves! The flaky crust with the semi-sweet filling was to die for! This was much better than the one we had for breakfast; I guess that secret recipe really is worth the hype!
Torre de Belém- Belem Tower
Our next stop was Lisbon's most iconic image: the Belem Tower! Originally built as a 16th-century fortification in the middle of the Tagus River, this tower protected the river entry from invaders. Now it is a symbol of Portugal's maritime and colonial power in early modern Europe and stands as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon from the water.
Monument to the Discoveries: Padrão dos Descobrimentos
Speaking of Portuguese exploration, the next stop on our tour was the Monument to the Discoveries. This modern monument is located beside a major Lisbon port and displays 33 figures who were instrumental in Portugal's rise as a maritime powerhouse during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Located at the tip of the monument holding a ship is Henry the Navigator. Known as the father of Portugal's exploration dynasty, Henry the Navigator began the push for exploring new lands. The other 32 figures are explorers, sea captains, travelers, writers, painters, and missionaries who aided in Portugal's global escapades.
Bryan and I enjoyed learning of Portugal's "discovery" of Japan in 1541. After trading with the Japanese and building relations with the local samurai, the Portuguese tried to convert the Japanese to Catholicism and failed miserably. The Japanese killed many of the crew and then banned any outside influences for hundreds of years.
Japan wouldn't open its doors to outside trade until the 1850s in Nagasaki Harbor, and even then the merchants weren't allowed to leave the Nagasaki area for fear they would spread their Western ideologies to the local people.
If this sounds at all familiar, then kudos to you because Bryan and I recognized this story from our time visiting the Glover Gardens in Nagasaki! It was crazy to build a connection with our Japan travels all the way across the globe in Portugal! (Also, how has it been 2.5 years since we did that day trip to Nagasaki?! Wow, how time flies!)
Praça do Comércio
As we continued our TukTuk tour, we journeyed back to the Alfama district to sightsee some of the Old Town. On the way there, we passed the Praça do Comércio square which is notorious for being the open square where hundreds of locals died in the 1755 earthquake/tsunami disaster.
Quick history advice: if a city catches on fire because all the candles fall during an earthquake, don't run to the town square by the water...a giant wave may come and take you all out while you are distracted by the burning city. It's morbid but true.
Arthur drove us up hills and around sharp turns that had us holding on for dear life while bursts of nervous giggling escaped our mouths as we flew around tight corners! He even blared Taylor Swift after learning that we were attending the concert later that night!
Was Sabrina embarrassed by the blasting music? Yes. Were we all ready for a nap? Yes. But there's no time for sleep when we have more to see!
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
The next spot was a lookout point overlooking the entire Alfama district from up high! It was a stunning view and Arthur even pointed out a hidden bar that escapes the crowds and has fantastic views away from all the tourists. Bryan and I took note- we may have to come back up here!
Pink Street
We also drove by Lisbon's famous Pink Street. Known for its clubs and nightlife, we weren't super impressed. I mean, it's a tourist attraction with the hot pink street, but that's just not our scene.
Lisbon Cathedral: Sé de Lisboa
Another beautiful sight was the Lisbon Cathedral. We timed it perfectly to drive by as a Lisbon tram came down the hill. It was picturesque, even if it did look like a smaller version of Paris' Notre Dame!
Locanda Italiana
With our tour over and it being close to 2 pm, we figured it was time to get some lunch! Just looking at us in these pictures I can see how exhausted everyone was...we had been up for almost 12 hours of nonstop fun, and the day wasn't even halfway over!
We quickly devoured our lunch; Sabrina and I opted for pasta, while the guys tried the traditional Portuguese cod with potatoes. While I enjoyed trying cod, I stuck to my pesto gnocchi and a glass of Portuguese green wine!
By now it was time to check in at our hotel! After some confusion over the double booking, we finally made it to our rooms for a 1.5-hour nap. I didn't realize the power a quick nap, a fresh application of deodorant, and a change of clothes could do for a person, but it was magical!
Estádio do Sport Lisboa e Benfica
With renewed energy, it was time for the main attraction.
It was time for THE Taylor Swift.
THE Eras Tour!
WE ARE GOING TO SEE TAYLOR SWIFT!
But first, we have to make it into the stadium. We try the train system again and arrive without any fuss. (Win!)
Surrounded by hundreds of fellow Swifties, we start wandering the outskirts of the stadium looking for any signage to lead us to "Gate 3." With free kombucha cans in hand that someone was passing out as we exited the train station, we began wandering around the stadium. (Yes, we took free drinks from strangers. Was that maybe a weird thing to do? Sure. Did it possibly save our lives from dehydration over the next three hours? Also yes.)
So we walk searching for any signs. Then we turn around and head in the opposite direction after a gate attendant said we were headed in the wrong direction. Somehow we end up on a highway entry ramp while trying to circle the stadium.
You read that right: highway on-ramp with Sabrina in a boot and all of us sweating our tails off. Eventually, we find a crowd of bedazzled concert attendees who say they are in line for Gate 3. Finally! We are in the right place.
And then we stand there in line for an hour without moving an inch. Something is wrong! The opener starts in 30 minutes and hundreds of people are still waiting to enter the arena! What is going on!? While Sabrina, Caleb, and I hold our spot in line, Bryan walks ahead to see what's up. He calls and tells me there isn't a line- just a massive crowd pushing their way towards the entrance up ahead. He tells us to come up there so we can bypass this crazy "fake-line" and actually get inside!
The next thirty minutes are complete chaos. Swifties are dedicated, and when they realize they may miss the start of the show, they get pushy. As we inched our way through the massive crowd trying to enter the gate, we spot people overhead taking photos of the crushing crowd, while listening to people chant "Let us in!" over and over again.
Just look at this Twitter post showing the crowds waiting to get in the stadium:
It took us nearly three hours to get in. Three hours. But was it worth it? Yeah, it was!
Thank goodness they pushed the show's start time by 30 minutes, so we made it to our seats just in time for Paramore's opening performance! We were also relieved to see that our seats were in the shade! After three hours in the sun trying to fight our way into the stadium, we were all relieved to sit down and take a breather before the big performance began!
Caleb jokingly said he only came to see Paramore, and I have to say, the group didn't disappoint! Seeing their huge hits like Misery Business, Still Into You, and The Only Exception live was pretty awesome! I loved shouting lyrics at the top of my lungs to popular hits that reminded me of middle and high school!
And then it was time.
Putting this concert into words is hard. I wouldn't say I am a die-hard Swiftie, but I am happy to say this was my first-ever concert! I can't imagine anything beating this experience.
Seeing Taylor Swift perform for three and a half hours straight, while engaging with the audience is a feat not many artists can do. Even people who aren't fans of her music have to hold respect for any artist who can compose, twice-record, sing, and perform at this caliber. And the woman sold out a national fútbol stadium two nights in a row.
To say it was magical is a severe understatement. I know Bryan and I said seeing a Spanish fútbol game was lively, but I don't think sports can touch the power of thousands of people in sequined outfits partying with Taylor. Taylor Swift is something else and seeing it live was awe-inspiring.
I asked Sabrina after the trip what memories she doesn't want to forget about that night, and here's her reply:
When the stadium lights came on during the standing ovation after Champagne Problems. This was the first time that has ever happened during the Eras Tour. Taylor Swift was speechless staring out into the crowd as the standing ovation continued for over 3 minutes.
Being a part of her first-ever show in Portugal. Taylor admitted that she has never performed in Portugal before today- including all of her previous tours!
Trying to carry 2 beers and 2 waters up the stairs while trying to balance in my boot. A kind stranger helped me carry the drinks until I could come back with empty hands!
Katie wanting to fight a girl (she called Candice) for pushing us when we were trying to get out of the stadium. (Not my finest moment, but I was over being pushed, and who gets blackout drunk at the Eras Tour?!)
Caleb needed to go to the bathroom but Bryan said he had to wait because Taylor was about to start singing the 10-minute version of All Too Well. It was a true brother-bonding moment!
Bryan running back from said bathroom break so he didn’t miss Enchanted.
Watching the lights of the wristbands from our seats go around the stadium in tune with the songs. It was amazing and made the audience part of the show too!
Here's everyone's favorite songs they got to see live:
Sabrina:
Caleb:
Love Story
Bryan:
Enchanted
Katie:
Miss Americana & The Heartbreak Prince- Seeing Taylor pop out at the start of the show and the crowd going wild. It was *chef's kiss*
We are Never Ever Getting Back Together-When the backup dancer said "nem que a vaca tussa!" ("Not in a Million Years!" in Portuguese) and the crowd lost their minds.
The Tortured Poets Department set- I can't choose one favorite; I've been listening to this album non-stop since it came out!
Reputation set- it was all fire. Literally.
Karma as the ending song- It was a great way to close out the show and now I need a shiny streamer jacket.
When browsing Twitter, I found this clip from outside the stadium. Imagine how loud it was inside when this is what people on the streets were hearing:
Leaving the stadium after the show was another game of shuffling along and trying to keep Sabrina from getting trampled in her boot! (Flashback to me wanting to fight "Drunk Candice" in Sabrina's memory list!) Luckily, everyone knew where they were headed, so the crowds were more organized than earlier that day! The magic of signage and knowledge! I tell 'ya!
After a packed train ride back to our hotel, we were all ready to crash and burn. Sabrina and Caleb were hungry, so they enjoyed a late night/early morning dinner of McDonalds, while Bryan and I skipped out on food in trade for more sleep!
While today was unimaginably long, it was also a day filled with memories to last a lifetime! But don't worry, that wasn't all we did in Lisbon! Be on the lookout for one last blog post on our trip with the Brandenburgs!
--Katie
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