Before I get into it, I want to start with the good. (That's a sentiment Cindy Kimble has instilled in me. Always start with the good!)
I want to reflect on the amazing life experiences we have enjoyed- and I can honestly say that it has all been worth it.
Ok, I may have disagreed with myself a week ago, but with time, I can say it is truly worth it.
Two 26-year-olds volunteered to move to the literal other side of the world to a place that wasn't ever on their radar for a visit. What were we thinking?! I don't know. We wanted adventure and we wanted to travel. We wanted to "take advantage of the military and travel the world on their dime."
And we did. Japan became home. Friends became family. Experiences changed us.
I no longer flinch when walking in a public bathroom and finding a squatty potty. (Only when there's no toilet paper and just a bum gun.) I enjoy smiling, nodding, and repeating "Arigato gozaimas!" as I check out at the grocery store. I look forward to traveling to Asian countries that I never thought I would ever visit in my lifetime. We have done it. 10 countries in less than 2 years:
Japan
Singapore
Malaysia
South Korea
Vietnam
Cambodia
Thailand
Philippines
Indonesia
Taiwan
I mean, just look at our map. We have experienced so much!
Places I never imagined visiting. Experiencing cultures I knew nothing about. But we did it and I am beyond proud to say that we regret nothing!
------------------------
Now, as I said, I wanted to get the mushy reflection out first because, in the midst of this PCS, I was not thinking good thoughts of our military journey. Instead, I was grinding my teeth, shedding way too many tears, feeling nauseous, and shaking uncontrollably as I latched kennels at many points because I didn't think we were getting to Spain.
So here we go. Buckle in and get ready!
May 25: Sasebo to Miami
As you probably read in our last post, the troubles began when SATO booked our flights. After numerous phone calls, virtual chats, and chasing down various offices around Sasebo's base, we had corrected flights and were ready for the morning of the 25th.
This is what lay ahead of Hugo, Reynolds, and I:
At 6:30 am, the FMAT driver arrived to take the dogs and me to the airport. As I toted down kennels and all our luggage, the driver informed me the dogs would have to stay in their kennels during the 2-hour drive to the airport. Welp, this isn't starting on the right foot.
As you may know, Hugo absolutely hates being in a kennel. Ever since adopting him at 8 weeks old, this boy has cried and fought to get out of a kennel at every opportunity, and, being 7 years old, nothing has changed.
I spent the two-hour ride sitting on the floor outside his kennel trying to calm him down, while he tried to bite, dig and cry his way out of this "torture device." Reynolds, my perfect angel, laid down and enjoyed the ride.
So by the time we got to the airport, my nerves were already fried. Listening to Hugo wail the entire ride has torn me up and I'm now dreading, even more than before, the fact that I have to leave him locked up for the next 14+ hours.
I am relieved to say that the FMAT driver did help me cart the dogs and all my luggage to the ANA check-in counter. An hour later, the pups were zip-tied into their kennels and the ANA workers wrapped both pups in netting as an added security measure.
I kept it together (mostly) and only had tears falling down my face. I kept in the hysterics as the pups were carted off. I knew I would see them in Haneda Airport outside of Tokyo, but whew...sending them off this first time was tough.
Once I made it through security, I found a 7/11 that sold my favorite chu hai brand- so I took it as a sign from God that I deserved two drinks to calm my nerves. Looking back on it, I think He provided me with these two chu hais as a condolence for what lay ahead! But I enjoyed these two drinks while waiting for my flight to board and refreshing the AirTag locators that I had placed on both Hugo and Reynolds' collars so I could track them through this whole process.
A quick hour-40 min flight later and we landed outside Tokyo at Haneda Airport. This is where the fun began. After disembarking the plane, I had to collect both huge suitcases and both pups, take a shuttle bus to the international terminal, and then check in with a different airline for the next flight.
Thank goodness for those two chu hais and praise God for ANA flight assistance- I had two ladies from the airline help me load up the pups and assist me the entire way to Japan Airlines' counter in the international terminal. These ladies, who were dressed in cute skirts and heels, helped me lift the dogs' kennels onto the shuttle bus, they asked people to move to other areas of the bus so the pups could fit, and they helped me shuttle them onto trolleys to transport them to the next airline counter. All for free and with a caring, friendly attitude.
I didn't realize how good I had it in Japan at this point. I had grown accustomed to Japan's friendly, helpful demeanors. I teared up and even hugged both ladies for all their help! They made this scary, dreadful transition so easy.
Once at the Japan Airlines (JAL) counter, I asked if there was any place I could take the pups for a potty break before their long flight back to the US. After speaking with a supervisor, they escorted me down an elevator to a service dog area. Again, I cried. I was able to give some love and fill both pups up with extra water, but they wouldn't potty.
So what does a single dog-mom do? She leashes up both pups, and runs with them outside the terminal about 200 yards to a small patch of grass! While they both took quick potty breaks, I looked around to make sure nobody was running after us. Then we ran back inside, got back in the kennels, and finished the check-in process.
Whew! With more paperwork checks completed, the dogs were re-wrapped in netting and carted off for their next flight- this one 9.5 hours to San Francisco. I can say, Hugo and Reynolds made a lot of friends with the JAL staff. People loved reading their signs on the sides of their kennels and talking to them while I completed all the paperwork.
Flight 2 check-in complete. With fewer tears this time around, I watched the babes get carted off again and then made my way through security.
I spent my waiting time, again, refreshing the AirTag locations and then confirmed, again, that the dogs were on the plane before letting the flight attendants scan my ticket to board the plane. With all things a go, I was off. Goodbye, Japan!
With the time change, we landed in San Francisco at 10 am on May 25th and the true hellscape began. Our flight landing was delayed, so we were already running short on time. By the time I got the pups, hired a man to cart the pups to the check-in counter for $40 (because the kennels were too big to fit on the $8 rental carts) and made it to the American Airlines counter, I was already stressed.
My time at this counter is a bit of a blur and, just seeing the 4 measly pictures I took during this time brings a knot to my stomach and bile to my throat. Pulling up to the counter, I was told to get in line with my 2 giant kennels. But the porter I hired wouldn't stay and let me keep the cart, so I was supposed to somehow scoot them along this weaving line of people without letting the dogs get out of their kennels...
Seeing my distress, one sweet lady from American Airlines (I'm pretty sure she was an angel sent to help me) told me to get the dogs out of the kennels, run them downstairs to potty and she would hold my spot in line.
So off I was a second time- running like a madwoman through an airport with my two pups to find grass and to give them more water. 15 minutes later, I'm back at the airline counter. This is when an evil woman from American Airlines tells me I have to get in the back of the line (my angel is nowhere to be seen) and that I probably won't make my flight. She tells me it's going to take 2 hours to check in the dogs and my flight leaves in 2.5 hours.
Set in the panic.
I'm shaking uncontrollably while trying to cram dogs back in their kennels. The dogs are fighting me- they have been in these things for almost 17 hours and they are not keen on getting back in. While I'm now hysterically crying, a kind woman walking past helps hold the kennel while I cram a dog in each.
Then I look up and my angel-American Airlines worker has returned. She ushers me to one counter and says this lady will help me.
Again, I'm told it will take an hour to check in EACH dog, but she will work as fast as possible. She recruits another worker who begins processing one dog while she does the other one. I tell her thank you (between sobs) multiple times. Finally- someone is helping me.
During the hour-long process, she tells me the plane is too small to fit the kennels. The kennels are the exact height as the door to the plane so they can't fly. I pull out all my paperwork saying that this plane IS large enough for the kennels, and after more explaining (and me practically begging) she calls the cargo area. They tell her the plane is too small. She begins looking for a different flight. I start praying.
Five minutes pass and her phone rings. Cargo was wrong, the kennels will fit. We are good. I cry more.
With the flight leaving in 30 minutes, the dogs and I are ushered to a back door where TSA agents look in the kennels and take them back for boarding. With tears flying down my cheeks I run to get in the security line.
I'm going to miss my flight. Security is going as slow as possible (another American problem I haven't encountered anywhere in Asia) and I'm watching the remaining minutes tick by in this dreadfully slow line. I ask the people in front of me if I can scoot ahead- I show them my departure time on my phone. They allow me. So does the next. So does the next. So does the next couple. Then a lady tells me no.
She says I should have gotten here earlier if I was this concerned about missing my flight.
I try to explain, through sobs (yet again) that I was here hours ago. I flew two dogs from Japan. She didn't care. She wouldn't let me pass. I'm pretty sure she was Satan in human form.
The sweet couple behind me were beyond kind. They told me I would make my flight. "Stay calm, it's going to be ok."
Eventually I make it to security. Shoes off, laptop out, jump in line for the metal detector (in front of Lucifer, I might add) and then I was off. Imagine Home Alone but add hysterical elephant-tears to the frantic expression and you can picture me sprinting through SFO.
And I made it. Final boarding call- 4 people ahead of me- but I did it.
I had to slow down, take a deep breath (between sobs) and repeat myself to the flight attendant- just tell me if my dogs are on this plane. She asked the pilot, who wasn't sure. So she got off the plane to confirm herself. Ten minutes later, the pilot walked to my seat and said, "Your babies look happy and they are settled and ready for takeoff. Take a deep breath. They are ok and you are here."
Even in moments of turmoil and darkness, there is kindness and goodness. Thank you, God, for the good people along the way.
Still unable to eat anything from the in-flight meal, I spent the next 6 hours calming my nerves and reading on my kindle. I think I took an hour nap in there too.
I was finally able to relax. When I land, my mom and dad will be there to greet me and take me to the airport hotel and love on my babies for a few hours. Plus, I can get out all the remaining crying I need to with the ones I love most. Next stop: family and a 19-hour layover to sleep.
I can do this.
Then I landed in Miami to a plethora of texts: Mom and Dad's flight was delayed due to bad weather. They are still sitting in Raleigh trying to get to me.
With no other choice, I hire another porter (hey, this time it only cost $30!) to help me get the pups to the Miami International Airport Hotel. Then I get in another long line to check into the room my dad booked for us.
After checking in and getting the pups and our luggage up to the room, I leashed up the babies to find some grass. While walking around outside, I call my parents (crying of course.) I explain that I'm upset they aren't here, but I know it's not their fault. I tell them I'm ok and I can do this. I already arranged for another porter to help me the next day get to our next airline check-in counter. I tell them to cancel their flights. "Whatever you spent on these last-minute flights to help me has got to equal a single flight to Europe. Save your money- come see me in my new home instead."
While I could tell they were very upset, their flight wasn't set to land in Miami until 3 am anyways, so they canceled their flights and headed home. Another big disappointment (that was out of all of our control) hit me like a ton of bricks. But we are over halfway there now. I can do this.
The next morning, things didn't feel so dark. With a good night's rest, extra cuddles and face licks from my babies, I could tell they weren't permanently damaged and we could do this. Only two flights left.
With the help of a friendly bellhop (using my last $10 in cash as a tip,) I got the dogs and our bags to Iberia's check-in desk and joined the long line of Spanish-speakers waiting for tickets. Hugo didn't appreciate being locked back in the kennel, so he made his voice known (and heard) throughout the terminal. But the kindness of strangers prevailed again as people read the dog's signs, peeked in, and whispered words of encouragement to my puppies while I was too far away to comfort them. Strangers walking by would say "It's going to be ok Hugo!" "You are almost there, Reynolds!" and my heart exploded.
Iberia's check-in process went smoothly. So smoothly that I was sure something was wrong. They handed me stickers, a single form to fill out, and told me to complete the steps and then tp return to the counter to pay the fee. Thirty minutes later (and nearly 800 Euros poorer) the pups were checked in and ready for their flight. Best news though? I don't have to re-check the dogs at our Madrid layover; Iberia will handle the pups from here to our final destination. So I cried tears of joy!
This was the first (and only) connecting flight that I didn't have to worry about getting the dogs to a baggage counter. Iberia did it all for me!
We wheeled them over to the TSA door, where two sweet TSA workers peeked in the pup's kennels and told me they would be good to go from there! After snapping a few last pictures to send to Bryan, the dogs were off to Spain! I cried some more- they are on their way. I did it!
While tracking the pups' movements through the "backside" of the airport, I stumbled upon a Priority Pass Lounge and figured I could use some free wine. (Having an American Express credit card has come in clutch with all our travels; we get to use tons of airport lounges for free through their services.) And if you are counting: up to this point in my travels, I have ingested:
2 chu hais
a small serving of green beans from one of the in-flight meals (then felt like I was going to get sick.)
1/4 of a biscotti cracker from an airline (that I also felt like I was going to throw up)
the leftovers from a few bottles of water I gave to the dogs (for clarification, I didn't drink their backwash- I just let them chug as much water as they wanted in a dog bowl and then I drank what was left in the bottle.)
and NOW, finally feeling some peace, two glasses of wine, a small side salad, and some hummus.
But hey, I didn't cry in the airport lounge, so that's a small victory!
While passing the remaining time until my flight to Madrid, I calculated the total cost of flying two dogs from Sasebo, Japan to Jerez, Spain. Our total thus far out of pocket comes out to $1,713.71.
Eventually, it was time to head to my gate and prepare for the last long flight of my trip! I checked the AirTags and confirmed with the flight attendant: the pups are on board! Ready for take-off!
It wasn’t until after a quick nap and receiving my in-flight meal that I realized I’m actually moving to Spain. This journey so far has been a whirlwind and all I could manage was one step at a time- never a glance at the final destination.
My pasta came with red wine (hell yes) but was missing the normal chopsticks in the silverware wrapper. Boarding this plane to my new “home” feels so different than just last week’s flight home from Taiwan. Less Asian and many more tan and green-eyed travelers, and did I mention the airplane wine? It was on this flight that it hit me. I'm moving, by myself, to another new country. And my dogs are thankfully going with me.
After feeling all those emotions (but hey, I didn't cry!) I landed in Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport. Memories of my college spring break in Spain came back as I walked through the neon green terminal of Madrid's airport and made my way to the domestic terminal. I had stood in this same spot over nine years ago when I visited Madrid and Barcelona with NC State University's Scholars Program and I just had a fun chuckle looking back at my first ever travel blog I did for that trip. (Don't judge the 2014-me, but click here to see the pictures I took standing in this exact terminal 9 years ago! How time flies!)
While waiting in the customs line, I met Steve Rogers, who struck up a conversation after seeing Bryan's Captain America shield flight-pillow attached to my backpack. Yep, the guy behind me is legally named Steve Rogers (he showed me his passport) and I enjoyed a good 15-minute chat with him while waiting to get my passport stamped!
See, there are more good people in the world.
Eventually, I made it to my next gate and tried to patiently wait for our final flight, while, yet again, constantly refreshing the dog's AirTag locations. I was happy to see that they were kept in the air-conditioned cargo holding area. Before boarding, I was told the dogs had not been boarded on the plane yet, but that they would be the last items added to the plane so they can enjoy the cozy areas for as long as possible.
This made a mama's heart happy!
Our final flight was the easiest- one hour, 15 minutes of airtime and we landed in Jerez, a small local airport only 30 minutes from Rota's Naval Base! One of the dentists that will eventually work with Bryan picked me up and introduced himself as Jeff. (I know he's a Captain at the hospital, but for now I only know him as Jeff!)
While I got the pups out and pottied, Jeff loaded up all our luggage and dog kennels for the final leg of our trip.
After 62 hours and 45 minutes of travel time, we made it to Rota's Navy Lodge and checked into our temporary home. 62 hours and 45 minutes of heartache. Of tears. Of hysterics. But we made it.
But we didn't make it completely unscathed. Apart from my nerves, Hugo tried to escape even more during his final two flights from Miami to Rota. He sliced his nose pretty badly in several places; nothing that won't heal, but it still breaks my heart that he was that worked up while under the planes.
Once Jeff helped me lug all my things into the hotel room, I immediately tossed the pups in the bathtub for a good cleaning. Time to wash off all those plane smells! Hugo and Reynolds understood this meant we were finally done. By the time I got out of the shower, they were fast asleep on the pillows. We made it! The travels are over!
As I finish this blog, I take a deep sigh of relief. It has been a week since we arrived and writing this still brings up a lot of emotions. I am thankful for my family (Johnsons and Kimbles alike) who texted me encouragement throughout the travels. Between my mom and Jennifer, all of my texts were emailed to Bryan as a way to keep him informed, and I am forever grateful for the kind strangers along the way who showed light while I was feeling way too much of the dark.
At the end of this trip, all I can say is I never want to do this again. The next time I travel with these dogs on an airplane, I want it to be the last time ever.
Whew.
But we did it. We made it. Welcome to #thejohnsonsjourneys Spain edition.
--Katie
I have to say I was so stressed for you while reading this. Thank you for not posting it until you were safely in Spain so I knew there was a happy ending coming. I'm so proud of you, first of all, for even attempting this solo and then secondly, for doing the damn thing!!! I'm so glad that you and your babies both made it safely to Spain and I can't wait to continue to live vicariously through your adventures. Big hugs!!
Oh Katie as Im reading this Im crying with you. My heart was breaking for you! YOU DID IT! So proud of you! So happy your babies made it. XOXO
Tracy Z